North East Rowing on-line
Repainting...
The techniques outlined above are equally applicable when refurbishing/repainting blades already in club colours.
The amount of preparation needed will depend on the condition of the "old" paintwork.
Before repainting is started it is a wise precaution to carry out a "service" on the oar including checking/cleaning sleeve and collar, checking nuts and bolts, checking/cleaning handle and checking the shaft and blade for damage.
The backs and the tips of blades will have the most wear. If the paint has been rubbed off down to the blade material full preparation of these areas incuding priming is advised. Also check the tips and blade surfaces for damage - repairs can be made with a flexible type of automotive filler such as Plastic Padding.
If paint damage is relatively light then rubbing down the backs and repainting coupled with cleaning the faces and touching up their paint may well suffice.
When repainting it is possible, with patience, practice and a steady hand, to "cut in" the colour division without using masking tape....if in doubt use it!
Chris Kenyon - May 20 2001.
The techniques outlined above are equally applicable when refurbishing/repainting blades already in club colours.
The amount of preparation needed will depend on the condition of the "old" paintwork.
Before repainting is started it is a wise precaution to carry out a "service" on the oar including checking/cleaning sleeve and collar, checking nuts and bolts, checking/cleaning handle and checking the shaft and blade for damage.
The backs and the tips of blades will have the most wear. If the paint has been rubbed off down to the blade material full preparation of these areas incuding priming is advised. Also check the tips and blade surfaces for damage -
If paint damage is relatively light then rubbing down the backs and repainting coupled with cleaning the faces and touching up their paint may well suffice.
When repainting it is possible, with patience, practice and a steady hand, to "cut in" the colour division without using masking tape....if in doubt use it!
Chris Kenyon -
Caring for our blades - Chris Kenyon May 2001
It is very easy - and unfortunately all too common - for modern composite rowing and sculling blades to be regarded as being virtually maintenance free and thus capable of withstanding any abuse to which they may be submitted. Take heed....
Such is the nature of this high tech kit that new Concept II Dreissigacker blades, for example, come with a "workshop manual" running to no less than 21 pages containing guidance on their assembly, use and maintenance. (A copy is available in the Boathouse).
Consider this - if a blade breaks in the middle of a race as a result of abuse, lack of maintenance or ignorance it matters not one jot whether our club is at the millionaires end of the spectrum or whether we are struggling to survive....
There is no great mystery surrounding the care and use of these blades, a lot of it boils down to common sense and following a few basic procedures.
At the time of writing a composite sweep oar costs around £250. You can make a valuable contribution to the club - and it won't cost you a penny - by ensuring that our blades are used and cared for in accordance with the following notes.
Such is the nature of this high tech kit that new Concept II Dreissigacker blades, for example, come with a "workshop manual" running to no less than 21 pages containing guidance on their assembly, use and maintenance. (A copy is available in the Boathouse).
Consider this -
There is no great mystery surrounding the care and use of these blades, a lot of it boils down to common sense and following a few basic procedures.
At the time of writing a composite sweep oar costs around £250. You can make a valuable contribution to the club -
Advice from the horse's mouth......
To begin with I can do no better than reproduce the relevant text from the Concept II Dreissigacker Racing Oars "Assembly and Use" manual:
"Dreissigacker Oars have been designed to withstand the forces generated by rowing. They are high performance equipment and are not specifically designed to withstand misuse."
ROWING:
You should not row at greater than half power if everyone in the boat is not rowing.
Do not assume that the oars will survive a collision or abuse simply because they are made of fibreglass and graphite.
When lying on the ground, the tips (concave side) of the oars should be up and there should be no weight on the oars.
If you row in salt water we recommend rinsing the oars in fresh water after rowing paying special attention to the sleeves, collars and oarlocks.
STORAGE:
Do not store oars in direct sunlight. Ultraviolet light will eventually degrade the surface and shorten the life of the oar.
Do not store oars on a damp floor, especially if they have wooden handles.
Do not pile any weight on the oars.
If adjustable handle oars must be stored outside where heavy rain is a possibility, be sure to store them with the handle end down.
TRANSPORTING:
Be sure to use some padding when tying your oars to a roof rack(see photos later in this page).
CAUTION:
Tubular metal racks in particular can cause serious damage to an oar that is tied on directly without padding.
LUBRICATING THE SLEEVES:
It is our experience that the plastic components we use need no lubrication. Keeping the sleeve, collar and oarlocks clean and grit free will result in smooth action when feathering and extend the life of the wearing parts. If you feel you need any lubrication , use a light silicone or WD-40.
If oil or grease is used it should be wiped off frequently because it tends to attract and hold grit which will wear sleeves, collars and oarlocks.
CLEANING WOODEN SWEEP HANDLES:
The wooden handles on our sweep oars are prone to accumulations of oil and dirt over time.
They can be cleaned and revitalised by scrubbing with a solution of Ajax (or similar) and water and a non abrasive pad.
CLEANING BLACK RUBBER SCULLING GRIPS:
The black rubber sculling grips will age over time with exposure to sunlight. This may result in some of the surface layer coming off on your hands as you row. To alleviate this problem you can clean the grips periodically by scrubbing them with water and a non abrasive pad."
PAINTING:
see below for illustrated guide to painting blades.
To begin with I can do no better than reproduce the relevant text from the Concept II Dreissigacker Racing Oars "Assembly and Use" manual:
"Dreissigacker Oars have been designed to withstand the forces generated by rowing. They are high performance equipment and are not specifically designed to withstand misuse."
ROWING:
You should not row at greater than half power if everyone in the boat is not rowing.
Do not assume that the oars will survive a collision or abuse simply because they are made of fibreglass and graphite.
When lying on the ground, the tips (concave side) of the oars should be up and there should be no weight on the oars.
If you row in salt water we recommend rinsing the oars in fresh water after rowing paying special attention to the sleeves, collars and oarlocks.
STORAGE:
Do not store oars in direct sunlight. Ultraviolet light will eventually degrade the surface and shorten the life of the oar.
Do not store oars on a damp floor, especially if they have wooden handles.
Do not pile any weight on the oars.
If adjustable handle oars must be stored outside where heavy rain is a possibility, be sure to store them with the handle end down.
TRANSPORTING:
Be sure to use some padding when tying your oars to a roof rack(see photos later in this page).
CAUTION:
Tubular metal racks in particular can cause serious damage to an oar that is tied on directly without padding.
LUBRICATING THE SLEEVES:
It is our experience that the plastic components we use need no lubrication. Keeping the sleeve, collar and oarlocks clean and grit free will result in smooth action when feathering and extend the life of the wearing parts. If you feel you need any lubrication , use a light silicone or WD-
If oil or grease is used it should be wiped off frequently because it tends to attract and hold grit which will wear sleeves, collars and oarlocks.
CLEANING WOODEN SWEEP HANDLES:
The wooden handles on our sweep oars are prone to accumulations of oil and dirt over time.
They can be cleaned and revitalised by scrubbing with a solution of Ajax (or similar) and water and a non abrasive pad.
CLEANING BLACK RUBBER SCULLING GRIPS:
The black rubber sculling grips will age over time with exposure to sunlight. This may result in some of the surface layer coming off on your hands as you row. To alleviate this problem you can clean the grips periodically by scrubbing them with water and a non abrasive pad."
PAINTING:
see below for illustrated guide to painting blades.
Carrying blades on a roof rack
When carrying blades on a roof rack steps must be taken to prevent damage to their shafts. Here is one way of doing this.
In the top photo the shafts are protected by placing the sleeves of the blades on the front rack bar . The collars assist in locating them in this position.
In the bottom photo the shafts are protected from damage by foam padding taped to the rear rack bar.
Rubber bungees are ideal for securing blades onto roof racks but it is vital to check that they are in good condition. To make doubly sure, secure each bank of blades with two bungees.
When carrying blades on a roof rack steps must be taken to prevent damage to their shafts. Here is one way of doing this.
In the top photo the shafts are protected by placing the sleeves of the blades on the front rack bar . The collars assist in locating them in this position.
In the bottom photo the shafts are protected from damage by foam padding taped to the rear rack bar.
Rubber bungees are ideal for securing blades onto roof racks but it is vital to check that they are in good condition. To make doubly sure, secure each bank of blades with two bungees.
Blade painting
Question : If oars were used by sports such as football, motor racing and cycling do you think they would be smartly painted and pristinely presented or would they be scratched, scruffy and shamefaced?
Experience indicates the former - so why do so many rowing clubs seem to have so little pride in one of their main items of team livery? Just have a look at the cover of the April 2001 edition of Regatta if you don't believe me - and, while you are at it, spot the basic mistake made by most of those who put those blades on the ground (the answer is in one of the "workshop manual" items above).
Another scenario - if Scruffbag RC were competing for the same sponsor as Smartaspaint RC who do you think would stand the best chance of success?
Just a thought……Right, rant over, now to work….
I have a sneaking admiration for those who chose the blade paint schemes for the likes of Durham University BC, Lea RC, Leander and both the clubs at Bideford. And for why? They realised that the simpler the scheme, the easier they were to paint and so chose to have a single colour.
But those of us who find ourselves with two or more colours need only to apply a bit more effort, use a few tricks of the trade and wait a bit longer for the drying process to achieve just as good a result. Some would say better - Durham University Stockton Campus Boat Club have a blade colour scheme almost as complicated as their name but it does looks superb…..
The rest of this page follows the repainting of used Concept ll blades.
Before we start...
Painting in a location other than the boathouse is worth considering if you want to avoid complaints from members about ruined /paint stained clothing and the inevitable fingerprints from those "just checking to see if they are dry yet". If you do take them home for painting (say in your garage) do tell the Club Captain - he/she has enough to deal with without worrying about the disappearance of £2000 worth of kit!
To avoid a cricked back I work with the blade end supported on a B&D Workmate adjusted to full height - thus enabling the job to be done in an upright position (anyone who has painted 8 oars bent over a standard height boat trestle will know what I mean). To avoid damage to the neck of the shaft the bench should be padded. The handle must also be protected - the end of a wooden handle is very easily chipped if scraped on a rough floor - a
Question : If oars were used by sports such as football, motor racing and cycling do you think they would be smartly painted and pristinely presented or would they be scratched, scruffy and shamefaced?
Experience indicates the former -
Another scenario -
Just a thought……Right, rant over, now to work….
I have a sneaking admiration for those who chose the blade paint schemes for the likes of Durham University BC, Lea RC, Leander and both the clubs at Bideford. And for why? They realised that the simpler the scheme, the easier they were to paint and so chose to have a single colour.
But those of us who find ourselves with two or more colours need only to apply a bit more effort, use a few tricks of the trade and wait a bit longer for the drying process to achieve just as good a result. Some would say better -
The rest of this page follows the repainting of used Concept ll blades.
Before we start...
Painting in a location other than the boathouse is worth considering if you want to avoid complaints from members about ruined /paint stained clothing and the inevitable fingerprints from those "just checking to see if they are dry yet". If you do take them home for painting (say in your garage) do tell the Club Captain -
To avoid a cricked back I work with the blade end supported on a B&D Workmate adjusted to full height -
Preparation, preparation.......
The basis of any quality job is preparation. In the case of these blades the original colours (top photo) need to be obliterated before our own can be applied. Not knowing the effect of chemical paint strippers on composite blades it was decided simply to sand the existing gloss finish to provide a key for the first coat of paint. Never use a heat gun as it will delaminate the blade.
Masking tape is then wrapped around the neck of the oar to keep stray paint off it.
An International Paints grey primer/undercoat is then brush painted on (bottom photo).
New blades come "ready primed" but even with them I prefer to start with a primer/undercoat in the interests of thorough preparation).
The basis of any quality job is preparation. In the case of these blades the original colours (top photo) need to be obliterated before our own can be applied. Not knowing the effect of chemical paint strippers on composite blades it was decided simply to sand the existing gloss finish to provide a key for the first coat of paint. Never use a heat gun as it will delaminate the blade.
Masking tape is then wrapped around the neck of the oar to keep stray paint off it.
An International Paints grey primer/undercoat is then brush painted on (bottom photo).
New blades come "ready primed" but even with them I prefer to start with a primer/undercoat in the interests of thorough preparation).
Still more preparation...
When dry, the primer is rubbed down lightly (top photo).
I use a sanding block comprising a finishing grade paper mounted on a foam block (from B&Q etc). This makes it easier to follow the curvature of the blade and to maintain an even pressure. Be careful not to rub too hard on the edges and the spine or you will take off all the primer that you have applied to these parts.
With the base coat prepared, the outline of the blade design is marked on both faces of the blade using a simple cardboard template (middle photo). The Tees blade is sky blue tipped maroon with the colours split diagonally (like Tideway Scullers from whom I pinched the idea over 30 years ago!). The wide end of the split is at the top of the blade and is 150mm from the tip and the bottom is 100mm from the tip.(For sculling blades the measurements are 120mm and 80 mm respectively).
Having marked the paint dividing line, masking tape is then applied along it on both faces of the blade (bottom photo).
When dry, the primer is rubbed down lightly (top photo).
I use a sanding block comprising a finishing grade paper mounted on a foam block (from B&Q etc). This makes it easier to follow the curvature of the blade and to maintain an even pressure. Be careful not to rub too hard on the edges and the spine or you will take off all the primer that you have applied to these parts.
With the base coat prepared, the outline of the blade design is marked on both faces of the blade using a simple cardboard template (middle photo). The Tees blade is sky blue tipped maroon with the colours split diagonally (like Tideway Scullers from whom I pinched the idea over 30 years ago!). The wide end of the split is at the top of the blade and is 150mm from the tip and the bottom is 100mm from the tip.(For sculling blades the measurements are 120mm and 80 mm respectively).
Having marked the paint dividing line, masking tape is then applied along it on both faces of the blade (bottom photo).
What type of paint?
There is much debate on what type of paint should be used. Dreissigacker suggest "automotive or marine grade paint".
Automotive paint tends to come in aerosol cans and does have certain advantages such as being quick drying. But use of these sprays, particularly in a boathouse, requires great care as the paint tends to "drift". The club's ace sculler will not take kindly to his pristine wooden Carl Douglas acquiring a dusting of sky blue (or any other colour come to that) no matter how fetching you may believe it to be. (I was chatting to CD shortly after I wrote this and he told me that such a fate did in fact befall the CD single of a young lady in New Zealand - happy she was not...!).
Marine paint is fine but in my experience tends to be hard to find in club colours and can be expensive.
So, for Tees RC I use "off the shelf" International Paints Japlac Gloss "Burgundy" for the maroon and an Exteror Quality Dulux Blue Gloss (mix ref. 93BG32374) for the Sky Blue. Maroon seems to vary little but blues change from year to year. For this reason we chose a blue which can be reproduced to order to a "Matchmaker colour mix".
There is much debate on what type of paint should be used. Dreissigacker suggest "automotive or marine grade paint".
Automotive paint tends to come in aerosol cans and does have certain advantages such as being quick drying. But use of these sprays, particularly in a boathouse, requires great care as the paint tends to "drift". The club's ace sculler will not take kindly to his pristine wooden Carl Douglas acquiring a dusting of sky blue (or any other colour come to that) no matter how fetching you may believe it to be. (I was chatting to CD shortly after I wrote this and he told me that such a fate did in fact befall the CD single of a young lady in New Zealand -
Marine paint is fine but in my experience tends to be hard to find in club colours and can be expensive.
So, for Tees RC I use "off the shelf" International Paints Japlac Gloss "Burgundy" for the maroon and an Exteror Quality Dulux Blue Gloss (mix ref. 93BG32374) for the Sky Blue. Maroon seems to vary little but blues change from year to year. For this reason we chose a blue which can be reproduced to order to a "Matchmaker colour mix".
The finishing coats....
Using a good quality brush (cheap ones shed hairs) start at the tip end and work towards the neck (top photo). It is easier to control the blade holding the tip rather than the neck. Apply the paint smoothly - not too little or it will not cover the base coat, not too much or it will run. Pay particular attention to the edges where it is all too easy to get runs if not fully brushed out.
When the paint is almost dry carefully remove the masking tape including that on the neck (middle photo) - if left until the paint is completely dry the tape tends to be harder to remove. It is a good idea to wear disposable gloves when doing this as the paint on the tape can get on your fingers and thence onto anything you go near no matter how careful you are! Also have a bin handy in which to dump the used tape or you will find yourself with painted masking tape all over your feet.
When this paint is completely dry (the edges tend to take longer to dry than other parts) apply masking tape over and up to the edge of the blue paint in order to prepare for the application of the maroon (bottom photo).
Apply the maroon paint and when almost dry remove the masking tape as before.
Using a good quality brush (cheap ones shed hairs) start at the tip end and work towards the neck (top photo). It is easier to control the blade holding the tip rather than the neck. Apply the paint smoothly -
When the paint is almost dry carefully remove the masking tape including that on the neck (middle photo) -
When this paint is completely dry (the edges tend to take longer to dry than other parts) apply masking tape over and up to the edge of the blue paint in order to prepare for the application of the maroon (bottom photo).
Apply the maroon paint and when almost dry remove the masking tape as before.
Finishing touches:
(1) A few turns of black insulating tape around the shaft where it joins the blade helps to protect this vulnerable area.
(2) Many clubs identify blade sets and blades by using plastic letters and numbers eg B1 to B8. This lettering looks very smart but can soon be damaged, even if a clear lacquer applied. To protect lettering use Duck All Weather transparent repair tape (from B&Q etc). This is like a heavy duty Sellotape and is "thick strong and waterproof". Apply it over the lettering and round the full circumference of the shaft overlapping the ends by about 15 mm.
(1) A few turns of black insulating tape around the shaft where it joins the blade helps to protect this vulnerable area.
(2) Many clubs identify blade sets and blades by using plastic letters and numbers eg B1 to B8. This lettering looks very smart but can soon be damaged, even if a clear lacquer applied. To protect lettering use Duck All Weather transparent repair tape (from B&Q etc). This is like a heavy duty Sellotape and is "thick strong and waterproof". Apply it over the lettering and round the full circumference of the shaft overlapping the ends by about 15 mm.
The finished product.....
Stand back and admire your handiwork.... BUT before moving/using the blades allow the paint plenty of time to dry and harden.
Stand back and admire your handiwork.... BUT before moving/using the blades allow the paint plenty of time to dry and harden.